Skate

White · Medium · Dry

The most-planted white grape and the most chameleon-like. Crisp and steely from Chablis; rich, oaky, and tropical from California. Read the label, then match the style to the dish.

Works with Skate Fish · Skate Wings · Skate Black Butter +2 more Skate Fish · Skate Wings · Skate Black Butter · Skate With Green Sauce · Skate With Sauce Gribiche

White · Light · Dry

Galicia's gift to summer — citrus, peach, salt air, and acid like a knife. Made for shellfish, paella, and any dish that involves the sea.

Works with Skate Fish · Skate Wings · Skate With Green Sauce +1 more Skate Fish · Skate Wings · Skate With Green Sauce · Skate With Sauce Gribiche

Sparkling · Light · Dry

Méthode champenoise from the most chalk-rich corner of France — fine bubbles, brioche, lemon zest, and a finish that goes on for half a minute. The wine for anything fried, salty, or special.

Works with Skate Fish · Skate Wings · Skate With Green Sauce +1 more Skate Fish · Skate Wings · Skate With Green Sauce · Skate With Sauce Gribiche

White · Light · Dry

Italy's everyday white — light, lemony, neutral by design. Pleasant with anything; profound with very little. The best Friuli bottles are quietly excellent.

Works with Skate Fish · Skate Wings · Skate With Green Sauce +1 more Skate Fish · Skate Wings · Skate With Green Sauce · Skate With Sauce Gribiche

White · Light · Dry

Citrus, cut grass, and a wire of acid. Marlborough makes it loudest; Sancerre makes it most refined. Either way, it cuts cleanly through goat cheese, herbs, and anything with shellfish.

Works with Skate Fish · Skate Wings · Skate With Green Sauce +1 more Skate Fish · Skate Wings · Skate With Green Sauce · Skate With Sauce Gribiche

Rosé · Light · Dry

Provence's gift to summer — dry, pale, faintly strawberry-and-citrus, with low alcohol and crisp acid. Made to drink cold, with food, in the shade.

Sparkling · Light · Dry

Spain's traditional-method sparkling, made in Catalunya. Crisper and chalkier than Prosecco; remarkable value next to Champagne. Pair with jamón, tortilla, and grilled vegetables.

White · Medium · Dry

Chardonnay grown on Burgundy's chalkiest soils, almost never oaked. Lean, steely, oyster-shell minerality; a wine that tastes like a place. The wine for shellfish, full stop.

Languedoc's largest appellation — Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre blends, sun-warmed, rustic, peppery, garrigue-scented. Honest, food-friendly, never expensive.

Provence rosé at its most classic — pale, dry, Mediterranean, with strawberry, citrus, and a saline finish. The wine of Provençal lunches.

Corsica's most serious appellation — Nielluccio (Sangiovese-related) reds with bright cherry, herb, and Mediterranean character. The island's most distinctive wine.

Red · Light · Dry

Burgundy's most temperamental grape, but the rewards are real — translucent ruby with a perfumed lift of red cherry, forest floor, and clove. Silken tannins and bright acid make it the most versatile red on the table; serve cool, around 58°F.