Poached Monkfish Or Goosefish With Sauce

Loire wines from around the city of Angers — Chenin Blanc whites (dry to sweet) and Cabernet Franc rosés. The whites are tremendous values.

White · Medium · Dry

Chablis's pinnacle — seven hillside vineyards above the village producing Chardonnay of remarkable depth and longevity. Decant; pair with serious shellfish.

White · Medium · Dry

The most-planted white grape and the most chameleon-like. Crisp and steely from Chablis; rich, oaky, and tropical from California. Read the label, then match the style to the dish.

A regional or producer-specific wine outside our standard reference. Body, acid, and sweetness will tell you most of what you need to know — let the first sip guide the plate.

The Northern Rhône's grandest red — pure Syrah from a single granite hillside, age-worthy for decades. Black olive, smoked meat, violet, and a tannic spine that demands time.

Switzerland's name for Pinot Gris — usually slightly sweet, full-bodied, alpine. The dessert wine of the Valais.

Burgundy's most generous white — rich, buttery, full of stone fruit and toasted nut. The Chardonnay you reach for when Chablis feels too austere.

Burgundy's grandest white — the most expensive Chardonnay on earth, from a tiny limestone hillside. Golden, ageless, immortal.

The aristocratic heart of Graves — both red and white Bordeaux of exceptional quality. Reds are smoky and structured; whites are some of France's most ageable.

Loire Chenin Blanc at its most uncompromising — bone-dry, schist-mineral, age-worthy for decades. The white wine for those who want the opposite of a fruit bomb.

White · Medium · Off-dry

Chenin Blanc from the Loire — runs from sec (dry) through demi-sec (off-dry) to moelleux (sweet). The demi-sec is the cheat code for spicy food.