Gravlax

Red · Light · Dry

Burgundy's most temperamental grape, but the rewards are real — translucent ruby with a perfumed lift of red cherry, forest floor, and clove. Silken tannins and bright acid make it the most versatile red on the table; serve cool, around 58°F.

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Sparkling · Light · Dry

Méthode champenoise from the most chalk-rich corner of France — fine bubbles, brioche, lemon zest, and a finish that goes on for half a minute. The wine for anything fried, salty, or special.

Works with Salmon Gravlax · Salmon Gravlax Tartar · Dilled Gravlax With Mustard Sauce +1 more Salmon Gravlax · Salmon Gravlax Tartar · Dilled Gravlax With Mustard Sauce · Grilled Gravlax With Mustard Sauce

White · Medium · Dry

The most-planted white grape and the most chameleon-like. Crisp and steely from Chablis; rich, oaky, and tropical from California. Read the label, then match the style to the dish.

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Rosé · Light · Dry

Provence's gift to summer — dry, pale, faintly strawberry-and-citrus, with low alcohol and crisp acid. Made to drink cold, with food, in the shade.

Works with Salmon Gravlax · Salmon Gravlax Tartar · Gravlax With New Potato Salad & Red Pickled Onion

White · Light · Dry

Citrus, cut grass, and a wire of acid. Marlborough makes it loudest; Sancerre makes it most refined. Either way, it cuts cleanly through goat cheese, herbs, and anything with shellfish.

Works with Salmon Gravlax · Salmon Gravlax Tartar · Gravlax With New Potato Salad & Red Pickled Onion

Sparkling · Light · Dry

California's méthode-traditionnelle sparkling wines — Chardonnay/Pinot Noir-based, brioche-and-citrus, often grown in cool coastal regions. Champagne quality at friendlier prices.

Works with Dilled Gravlax With Mustard Sauce · Grilled Gravlax With Mustard Sauce

Sparkling · Light · Dry

Spain's traditional-method sparkling, made in Catalunya. Crisper and chalkier than Prosecco; remarkable value next to Champagne. Pair with jamón, tortilla, and grilled vegetables.

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White · Medium · Dry

Austria's national white — green apple, white pepper, faint celery; lean acid, medium body, and an uncanny ability to pair with otherwise wine-hostile vegetables like asparagus and artichoke.

Works with Gravlax · Gravlax With New Potato Salad & Red Pickled Onion

White · Medium · Dry

Aromatic, racy, and shapeshifting — bone-dry in Alsace, off-dry on the Mosel, syrupy and ageless when late-harvested. The single most versatile wine for spicy food on earth.

Works with Dilled Gravlax With Mustard Sauce · Grilled Gravlax With Mustard Sauce

White · Medium · Dry

The white grape of the Northern Rhône — full-bodied, peachy, faintly perfumed, with the texture of a quiet Chardonnay. Pairs with anything saffron-tinged or apricot-glazed.

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White · Light · Dry

Galicia's gift to summer — citrus, peach, salt air, and acid like a knife. Made for shellfish, paella, and any dish that involves the sea.

White · Medium · Dry

Chardonnay grown on Burgundy's chalkiest soils, almost never oaked. Lean, steely, oyster-shell minerality; a wine that tastes like a place. The wine for shellfish, full stop.