Anchovy/anchovy Pasta

White · Medium · Dry

The most-planted white grape and the most chameleon-like. Crisp and steely from Chablis; rich, oaky, and tropical from California. Read the label, then match the style to the dish.

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White · Light · Dry

Citrus, cut grass, and a wire of acid. Marlborough makes it loudest; Sancerre makes it most refined. Either way, it cuts cleanly through goat cheese, herbs, and anything with shellfish.

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White · Light · Dry

Galicia's gift to summer — citrus, peach, salt air, and acid like a knife. Made for shellfish, paella, and any dish that involves the sea.

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Sparkling · Light · Dry

Méthode champenoise from the most chalk-rich corner of France — fine bubbles, brioche, lemon zest, and a finish that goes on for half a minute. The wine for anything fried, salty, or special.

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White · Light · Dry

Italy's everyday white — light, lemony, neutral by design. Pleasant with anything; profound with very little. The best Friuli bottles are quietly excellent.

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Provence's most serious red — Mourvèdre-dominated, structured, savory, with notes of black olive, leather, and Mediterranean herb. The age-worthy alternative to a southern Rhône.

Rosé · Light · Dry

Provence's gift to summer — dry, pale, faintly strawberry-and-citrus, with low alcohol and crisp acid. Made to drink cold, with food, in the shade.

Fortified · Full · Sweet

Sherry's driest, lightest style — aged under a yeast veil (flor) in oxygen-free conditions. Bone-dry, briny, almondy; the perfect tapas wine, served ice-cold.

Rome's everyday white — straw-colored, soft, lemony Malvasia blend. The wine of trattorias from Trastevere to Testaccio.

Red · Medium · Dry

Red wine led by fresh fruit character rather than tannin or oak — Beaujolais, light Pinot, Spanish Garnacha. Easy-drinking, food-friendly.

Campania's other serious white — Greco grape on volcanic soil, all peach, almond, and surprising structure. Ages quietly and well.

An uncatalogued varietal or single-vineyard wine. Taste before pairing: assess color, weight, and any obvious sweetness, then plate accordingly.