Lobster Cheese

White · Light · Dry

Citrus, cut grass, and a wire of acid. Marlborough makes it loudest; Sancerre makes it most refined. Either way, it cuts cleanly through goat cheese, herbs, and anything with shellfish.

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White · Medium · Dry

The most-planted white grape and the most chameleon-like. Crisp and steely from Chablis; rich, oaky, and tropical from California. Read the label, then match the style to the dish.

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Red · Light · Dry

Burgundy's most temperamental grape, but the rewards are real — translucent ruby with a perfumed lift of red cherry, forest floor, and clove. Silken tannins and bright acid make it the most versatile red on the table; serve cool, around 58°F.

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Sparkling · Light · Dry

Méthode champenoise from the most chalk-rich corner of France — fine bubbles, brioche, lemon zest, and a finish that goes on for half a minute. The wine for anything fried, salty, or special.

Works with Lobster Cheese · Lobster With Goat Cheese

White · Light · Dry

Italy's everyday white — light, lemony, neutral by design. Pleasant with anything; profound with very little. The best Friuli bottles are quietly excellent.

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Red · Medium · Dry

A catchall for red wine generally — covers everything from a $12 weeknight pour to first-growth Bordeaux. Match the bottle's weight to the food's weight and you'll rarely go wrong.

Red · Medium · Dry

Chardonnay from Burgundy — runs from steely Chablis through buttery Meursault to chiseled Puligny-Montrachet. Style varies; quality rarely disappoints.