When pink wine actually belongs on the table

Rosé sales have tripled in a decade, and 90% of those bottles are drunk by a pool. That's fine — Provence rosé is a brilliant aperitif. But pink wine earns its keep at dinner too. Here are the five meals where I reach for it without apology.

1. Mediterranean mezze and grilled fish

Hummus, tabouli, grilled lamb kebabs, charred octopus, feta-cucumber salad. Try matching a single wine to that whole spread; you'll fail with white (too lean for the lamb), red (too heavy for the seafood), or sparkling (gets lost in the smoke). Provence rosé bridges every dish.

2. Indian and Thai food

Off-dry Riesling is the standard pairing for spicy cuisines, but a serious dry rosé (Bandol, Tavel, or a structured Provençal) does similar work. The light tannins help with red curries; the fruit handles chili heat; the body matches the richness. Try with [tandoori chicken](/pair.php?food=tandoori chicken) or a Thai red curry.

3. Charcuterie boards

Salty cured meat, hard cheese, olives, cornichons. The bright acid of a dry rosé cuts through fat better than red would, while the slight color and body give it more presence than a white. The classic French apéro pairing, justified.

4. Fried chicken and Southern food

I've made the Champagne-fried-chicken argument elsewhere. Dry rosé is the everyday version. The pink fruit and acid lift the breading; the body matches the richness. Add coleslaw, biscuits, mac and cheese, and a serious rosé handles the whole plate.

5. Bouillabaisse and seafood stews

This is the textbook Provençal pairing. Bouillabaisse, bourride, San Francisco cioppino, even a Portuguese seafood rice — all want a wine with seafood-friendly acid but enough body to handle saffron, fennel, tomato, garlic, and fish stock. The wine and the dish evolved together.

The bottles to look for

• Bandol Rosé — Provence's serious rosé. Mourvèdre-led, structured, can age. Domaine Tempier is the reference.

- Tavel — the only French AOC that's exclusively rosé. Heavier, deeper, made for the table. - Côtes de Provence Rosé — the everyday choice. Domaine Ott, Whispering Angel, anything from a respected estate. - Rosado from Spain — Garnacha-based, often deeper colored, terrific value. López de Heredia makes the cult one (Tondonia Rosado).

What to skip

The very pale, very dry, very expensive "Provençal-style" rosé from California. It's pleasant. It's not what you want with dinner. Save it for the pool.